The method of binding two or more piece of materials together for example fabric, leather or any other textile. It is normally done with stitches with the use of sewing thread to start the structure although other material adhesives like glue are also used for completing the process.
Seams can be open or closed:
an open seam reveals the seam allowance, the piece of fabric between the stitches and the edge.
While
a closed seam hides this area within the finished garment.
Seams are crucial to garment construction, offering both strength and structure to the clothing. They not only shape the garment to fit the human body but also provide opportunities for adding decorative effects. Whether in mass-produced apparel, high-end dressmaking, or home shoe making, seams contribute significantly to the overall look and functionality of the piece.
When it comes to garment construction, understanding the various types of seams and their applications is mandatory. Industrial sewing machines are commonly used for stitching in large-scale production, while home sewers may also apply these techniques to create clothing brands, knitwear, or other personal sewing projects. The right choice of seam can make a substantial difference in both the functionality and appearance of the garment, ensuring the finished product is durable, well-constructed, and visually appealing.
Seams are classified by their type and position within the garment, such as the center back seam, inseam, or side seam. Each type serves a specific purpose, such as adding durability or contributing to the aesthetic appeal of the clothing. Different stitching techniques are used to finish seams, preventing raw fabric edges or raw texture edges from raveling
The plain seam is the simplest type of seam and can be used on almost any garment or item. It involves joining two pieces of fabric together with the wrong sides facing each other. This type of seam doesn’t require any specific stitch length or type, as long as it is a single line of stitching that holds the fabric together. Plain seams are versatile and commonly used in towel manufacturing, basic clothing construction, and various DIY projects.
A double-stitched seam is similar to the plain seam but with an added element for extra strength. It involves stitching two lines of thread to join the fabric, providing more durability. This seam type is typically used in areas that experience stress or heavy wear like athletic apparel, like seams in denim or other heavy fabrics, ensuring the garment or item holds up longer over time.
The French seam is a refined option that is often used for delicate fabrics like chiffon or organza. It encases the raw edges of the fabric, hiding them entirely, which prevents fraying. This technique is great for garments like unlined jackets or dresses where you want the seams to be hidden. However, it can become bulky on heavier fabrics like sports uniforms, so it’s best reserved for lightweight materials.
The bound seam is a clean and polished seam often used in fine garments. In this seam, one layer of fabric is wrapped over the raw edge of another, enclosing it completely. There are no visible stitches on the right side of the fabric, offering a neat, professional look. Bound seams are often used for necklines, armholes, and other visible edges that require a clean finish.
A flat seam is used when you need a joint with no additional fabric thickness at the seam, such as in underwear, foundation garments, or certain types of athletic wear. It involves sewing two fabric edges together using flat, overlapping stitches, often with a zigzag or chain stitch. The result is a smooth, nearly invisible seam that’s comfortable to wear.
The flat felled seam is one of the strongest types of seams, commonly used in durable garments like jeans and denim jackets. It involves folding one fabric edge over the other and stitching it down, which hides the raw edges inside the fold. The flat felled seam is both secure and neat, and it is a great option for seams that need to withstand significant stress.
A welt seam is frequently used in pants, especially jeans, and is known for its strength without the bulk of a flat-felled seam. The raw edge of the fabric is left visible on the inside, giving it a more casual, rugged look. The welt seam is strong and durable, making it an excellent choice for high-stress areas.
The lapped seam is ideal for fabrics that don’t fray, such as leather or fleece. In this seam, the pieces of fabric overlap and are stitched together, with the right sides facing up. The overlap prevents the raw edges from showing, which makes it great for items like outerwear, jackets, or any project where a clean finish is desired without too much bulk.
A piped seam is a decorative seam often used in upholstery, bedding, or high-end fashion. This type of seam uses piping, which is a small cord covered in fabric, inserted into the seam for added texture and design. It’s an elegant choice for adding dimension and visual interest to garments or furniture pieces.
The zigzag seam is commonly used to finish raw edges to prevent fraying. The zigzag stitch goes back and forth across the edge of the fabric, creating a flexible, stretchy seam. It’s particularly useful for knit fabrics or when additional stretch is needed, as it allows the fabric to move without the seam breaking.
An invisible seam is a type of hand-stitched seam used to join pieces of fabric without showing visible stitching on the outside. This seam is perfect for hems, linings, or any area where you want the stitches to remain unseen. It’s commonly used in delicate garments like evening wear or when creating a high-end finish.
The princess seam is a shaping seam that runs along the length of the garment, usually from the shoulder or armhole, down to the waist or hem. It’s often used in dresses and blouses to create a more tailored fit by molding the fabric to the shape of the body. The princess seam is a flattering, feminine design element that enhances the overall structure of the garment.
